Bret Easton Ellis's Enduring Obsession with '80s Style Returns with 'The Shards'

Bret Easton Ellis’s debut novel, Less Than Zero, published in 1987, introduced a generation to the decadent world of Angelenos obsessed with status and appearances. The film adaptation, released the same year, remains a potent snapshot of the era’s style.

A Time Capsule of Excess

Ellis’s work consistently explores the “Designer Industrial Complex” that fueled the extravagance of the 1980s. Through a detached, observational style, he captured the importance of consumerism and the pursuit of appearances in American life, exemplified by brands like Polo Ralph Lauren, Armani, and Calvin Klein.

As noted in a New York Times review, characters in Less Than Zero spent considerable time shopping and worrying about trivial matters, such as the alignment of their sunglasses. The novel’s descriptions of clothing – wide shoulders, skinny ties, and Ray-Ban Wayfarers – served as a window into the era’s nonchalant attitude towards wealth.

The Visual Legacy

The 1987 film, starring Andrew McCarthy, Jami Gertz, and Robert Downey Jr., was costumed by Richard Hornung, known for his work on films like Patty Hearst and Natural Born Killers. Hornung’s designs reflected the lived-in privilege of the characters, capturing the excess of a wealthy lifestyle.

Set designer Barbara Ling observed that the abundance of modern art in the homes depicted in the film was presented without genuine appreciation, suggesting a focus on investment rather than aesthetic enjoyment.

’80s Revival

Despite a shift in contemporary fashion, Ellis’s style continues to influence trends, with a current “’80s renaissance” evident in designers like Marc Jacobs and Demna.